![]() I don't assume this missing gasket could somehow create a way for the coolant around thermostat? I went the same way, but now am in doubt. ![]() Very small amount of silicone sealant was used instead of it before, you could see pieces of the old silicone instant gasket on the old thermostat. It's normally closed and submerging it into boiling water opens it up, so I assume it is fine.Īlso there probably should have been a gasket for the thermostat housing. I also tested the old thermostat to see if there was anything wrong with it at all. So, does anyone have any idea what's going on? Is coolant getting around the thermostat somehow? Could the temperature sensor fail in such a subtle way? UPDATE:Īfter 10 minutes of warming up the top radiator hose and the radiator itself feel slightly warm, so I assume some coolant is getting around that thermostat somehow. Even though I've only seen thermostats with large o-rings sealing the edge before. One strange thing I noticed is that neither the old or new thermostat had an o-ring gasket, but it seemed to fit into it's place perfectly, so I assumed it to be normal, designed to fit in place with no gasket. I don't think anyone has been tampering with the cooling system, this problem progressed naturally. At first it reached operating temperature fine, a while later the temperature wouldn't climb above 80 ☌, then it would climb above 70 ☌ (minimum on the temperature scale) only in longer trips, and now it doesn't at all. And you know what that did? Nothing, same problem.Īs far as I know the problem appeared gradually. A cold car's coolant temperature matches the outside temperature, so I assume the sensor is doing good.įirst thought would be a faulty thermostat - coolant is always allowed to go through the radiator and does not let the engine reach proper temperature. I checked the OBD readings to see if it was a defective coolant temperature sensor but it showed that the car struggles to reach 70 ☌ even when driven hard, usual warm temperature is ~65 ☌. It makes green lights a lot less fun.Here's a seemingly simple problem - I noticed that the temperature gauge of my mother's 2004 Opel Meriva 1.7CDTI won't ever climb above minimum. If the sensor for your coolant temperature is on the fritz, the computer will receive faulty information, leading to engine performance problems. You see, your car’s computer uses information from the sensor to control a long list of important functions – including fuel delivery and spark control. Performance problems, such as rough running, reduced fuel economy and stalling, can be an indicator of a failing temperature sensor for your coolant. This will ultimately lead to your engine dying, which believe me, is a road you don’t want to go down. ![]() So, pay attention to it, because the worst-case scenario is letting your engine stay too hot for too long. ![]() Also, it means your engine is too hot, and that’s bad news. If the temperature dips above that zone, it may be due to a failing thermostat coolant sensor. It should indicate your engine temperature being right in a happy zone. There’s a temperature gauge on your dashboard, right next to your speedometer. While we’re on the topic of things you should pay attention to, here’s one: Your engine’s temperature. You also might get a check engine warning light or, depending on the type of car you have, any other number of warning lights. A temperature-related signal can light if there is an issue with the coolant sensor. That’s to make them so simple that an idiot can understand that something is wrong. In the car world, the malfunction indicator lights are commonly known as idiot lights. Symptoms of a failing Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
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